Many installers have a bad habit of setting the wall tiles directly on the floor tiles without lifting them slightly to allow for grout, however, more than one of your remedies should have worked, especially the "tile caulk". Is your grout sanded or non-sanded? If the tiles are 4 1/4" it is probably non-sanded. If the tiles are 8" or larger the grout joints would be wider and would require sanded grout. Technically speaking, all grout is cosmetic because your installation would still function without it, although you would end up with "crud" and "mold" in the joints. We grout for the sanitary reasons as well as the better look when tile is grouted. Answer my questions, so I can better help you. Armen Tavy

I can't help you until you:                                                                                                                          Give me your current tile size. Does the carpeting start at the door and continue into the bathroom butting up to tile? It most likely be next to impossible to match your tile so you may have to tear it out. Would you want a marble threshold? You should. Tile labor rates are different depending on the City and State; so tell me where you live.

Small jobs are okay but sometimes they don't qualify for a minimum day rate. If  they have to return to grout the next day you will have an additional charge, unless they use a Rapid Set Mortar, which will cost you just a little bit more so they can complete the job in one day. This would make more sense to keep the cost down. Carpet and padding are not that difficult to remove. Answer all the questions or we will have to go back and forth several times. Armen Tavy

It's sad to say, most "caulkers" tend to over-caulk. It makes more sense to wait until it does crack before caulking. The grout, in a quality installation, rarely cracks. When caulking, try to pick a matching colored caulk. They also come sanded or non-sanded. Wash and wipe off as much extra caulk as possible (except for what is in the crack) so it is less noticable. Cracks in grout have no bearing on water leaks in wet areas unless there is a "hidden defect" or the crack is in the grout on the top of a shower curb. Grout cracks can also be the end result of trapped "air pockets" under the grout during installation. When possible, open up the crack a bit and re-grout the spot/s before trying to caulk. Armen Tavy

Pre drill a hole in a "Grout Joint" or hang it with a "Stick-It" type tape hanger" designed for the weight. Always clean the spot with Alcohol or as recommended. Armen Tavy

The following is one of the oldest disclaimers in the Tile Industry: "Shade Variation is Inherant in Ceramic Tiles". No company, that I am aware of, will refund or replace any tiles that they have sold after installation with this excuse by a purchaser to justify a refund or replacement. Some tiles, or rather most tiles today, have less problems with shading issues because of  improved manufacturing techniques, when it comes to shading issues, especially Porcelain. In the past, Installers were always cautioned to open every box of tile and inspect each for defects (which did not include shade variation) before installing them, however, shade variations were not always noticable until grouting was complete, and then it was too late. Architecural Digest Magazine often had photos of large marble installations where the "magazine browser" could spot shade variations quite easily. it was the norm and expected. 

I remember in the "old days", making it a point to ask the retailer or contractor sales person about how much, if any, shading problems there were with the tile selected. Even now, many retailers still have large disclaimer signs in plain view at the check out counter. Marble and granite tiles were always notorious for "shading", however, some "high End" distributors had "higher prices" for "select" grades. You often get or got what you paid for. I once installed a 3,000 sq ft marble installations where I sorted over 17 stacks of shade and grain variations, and I installed it, as well as other jobs of mine, in a balanced "blend", as all professionals who take pride in their work should. Depending on the "graining or veining", I "book matched" those "stone" installations out of "personal satisfaction", not as an extra charge.

I don't know how to answer your question, other than it is not really a legitimate claim, however an "astute" installer probably should have brought it to the customers attention, if it was noticable, while tiling or before grouting. Armen Tavy

Thank you for the "unsolicited endoresments" Jon. I am still not 100% decided on San Antonio at this writing, but it is a possibility. I am getting a little worn out with all the traveling I have been doing for the past 3 years, every week another city somewhere in the country.

Jon, grout rarely discolores on its own. The biggest problem is the "installer" who does not mix the "TOTAL" dry contents of grout in a bag or box before using only "a portion of it", and or using too much water in the mix or too much water in the washing. Never use sanded grouts around polished stone. I have heard of this new board but no feedback from anyone as yet. "There is always something new over the Horizon". The marble industry does favor a 3/32' grout joint between marble tiles.

A plastic mold manufacturing company is usually not in the retail or wholesale business, besides, they would loose their contracts if they were caught selling product. Always "double read" installation instructions on new products, and when in doubt always ask questions. Top sealing fasteners to waterproof them might cause me to "tilit my head" and "hum a bit", because it leaves much room for, "OE", operator error.

If I reserve a "Table Top" at Total Solutions" you will see my new TAVY Tile Spacers, as well as my new , as seen at Surfaces and Coverings 09, "Incredible" "008 Easy To Eliminate" Floating Tile Floor System" for Ceramic Tile, Marble, VCT and "glued down" Hardwood, and "It Defies Detection by Any Expert"!. Remove 100 square feet of ceramic tile in 20 minutes or less without any dust........... Nothing else like it in the ENTIRE WORLD.  Armen Tavy

That is easy. By hand, cold chisel and hammer; by electricity, with a "MAKITA" Power Scrapper, model HK 1810, $360 +. I love this tool, and they did not pay me to say that. You could also "rent' an Air Compressor with a flat blade demo chisel bit. Always use eye protection. fill in any "Divits" using a large putty knife (6 inches will work) and thin-set mortar or a suitable concrete patching material available in most tile stores. Please sleep tonight. Armen Tavy

I don't recall this specific size but I do recall the mark, however I'm sorry I can't remember the manufacturer. It may have been "U S Ceramics" and they have not been in business for a long time. In any case, you have a "free Ad here, so cross your fingers. Armen

Read a couple of posts back, #12215 for a similar incident. However their installation was also over a concrete slab. Ordinairily this type of water invasion should not phase a tile floor bonded with mortar over a cement slab. The water should evaporate on its own in do course, and mold should not be an issue unless the tiles were installed with a "tile mastic" instead of mortar. In order for mold to grow and fester it needs an organic food source combined with moisture. Tile and grout are never "waterproof". Depending on your reply your insurance company may re-think your claim. if the installer followed guidelines that were/are acceptable, you may be in luck, and I will help you all I can. Armen Tavy 

My sister was born in Philly, my patent attorney has his offices there and my TAVY "Tile Spacers" are made in York, PA. Here is one manufacturer's recommendation when installing glass tiles over masonry surfaces. For the conventional two-step process of thin-setting and grouting, use LATICRETE 211 Powder mixed with LATICRETE 4237 Latex Additive or LATICRETE 254 Platinum. Another option would be to use the one-step method of installation and grouting, using LATICRETE 1500 Sanded Grout - (select finish grout choice) mixed with LATICRETE 4237 Latex Additive. Generally speaking, the the correct mortar for glass tiles can be used for Porcelain, but all the mortar selections for Porcelain can't always be used for glass. The "word" adhesives usually means non-mortar products and we dont use these for glass tiles or Porcelain. A quality blade on a wet saw will keep his hair intact, as will the use of a tile "cutting board" that sells for over $100 plus. 

When installing glass tiles, the trowel lines of mortar need to be flattened a tad with a 6"or larger putty knife so thin-set mortar lines won't be visible thru the glass. When you are randomly placeing glass in the Porcelain tiles "field", flattening the mortar already in the location may be difficult, so use a flat blade putty knife to skim-coat the back of the glass tile just before inserting them in place. Of course, white colored mortars are required for glass tiles. Besides, white is an easier to clean up after mortar, so may installers use it exclusively. Armen Tavy

This result of flooding is not normal and further inspection is required. Some installers will lay tiles in new or old construction over "black building paper" thinking this is a good way to prevent hairline cracks. It may work for crack suppression but does not give you a good mechanical bond to the cement slab and tiles can and do sound hollow. If the installer used ready mix mastic to install the tiles, the mastic can emulsify if subjected to water flooding. If this is the case, the mastic may never harden again and the entire installation would have to be replaced.

Although most homeowners rarely consider it, it could be prudent to turn off the main water line during extended vacations. It is also a good time to turn off all the water "stop valves" in the residence. These valves should be opened and closed at least a couple of times a year anyway or their packing’s can dry making them inoperable in an emergency shut down situation.  

You also have issues with water wicking up the drywall around all the rooms involved in this flooding. It's to bad it was from a faulty water line unless by faulty you meant "burst", or even sprung a leak from a spot in the line and not from a screw connection. If this is the case, homeowners insurance should cover your loss. It wouldn't hurt to ask your agent.

Your only option is to remove at least one tile from an inconspicuous place, such as under the refrigerator, and inspect the technique used to install the tiles. The hollow sounding tiles may or may not ever give you a problem. The grout may even stay intact, however, any heavy or solid object dropped on a floor tile/s will most likely crack it/them. Armen Tavy

Let's hope one of our viewers can help you. In the meantime, what is it about this tile that intrigues you? We have so many tiles to choose from today. Look in your yellow pages for an ad that says they have everything. Go on line and look for tile stores that have web sites showing you their complete product line. If you are not in any special hurry attend the Surfaces Tile Show in Vegas, Feb, 2,3, and 4 and you will see tiles you never imagined, bring your check book. Coverings 2010 Orlando Florida April 27-30, this trade show is exclusive to floor coverings. It is a tile trade show with tile wonders that never cease. Armen Tavy

You could also live through a car accident if you did not have your seat belt fastened, but is it worth it. Back-buttering is the best insurance, even though it can be messy. I hold the tile upside down, at a height level with my chin, in my left hand. Much like a waiter carrying a tray. I give the tile a little "pop up" in the air, rotating it a bit each time it settles back down into my hand (about 6). I use the flat side of my tiling trowel to spread a very thin film on the back each time just before I rotate it again, until there are no bare spots on the tile's backside.

Tiles larger than 13" become a bit harder to hold and spin and may require their placement upside down on the mouth of a 5-gallon pail (with water in it for weight). Do not pick up more mortar on the forward 3 or 4 inches of your trowel than you can handle without being "sloppy". Learn to gauge just enough to cover the tile with a thin coating as thin as newspaper. Unload the mortar onto the center of the tile and pull with long quick strokes from the center of the tile towards the outside edge of a corner. Move the trowel quickly with a slight fast snap and lift up as you get to the edge of the tile so the excess mortar stays on the trowel. Your trowel will still be loaded with mortar and you will continue to unload the mortar at the center and then drag the mortar and trowel back towards you, repeating the process until the back is fully coated.

When done, use a damp sponge to give the four sides of the tile a quick wipe. Those larger tiles will require you to "load" the tip of the trowel with mortar more than one time so you can better control the mortar. "Practice makes perfect". Thank you for using my "Circular Spacer" for a square floor and my "PUCK" instead of "Luck" for Lippage. You should try using the bubble level when installing the larger format tiles, because they must be flat and level or you will have "tons" of lippage to correct. Armen Tavy

I just wrote a rather long and detailed answer, hit "save as" 3/4 of the way thru, and then hit control S just before the last sentence, as I would ordinarily have on a PC, but since I was regretfully on my new "IMAC" I lost everything when I hit control S and could not figure a way to retrieve my writings. I am so sorry I purchased this piece of JUNK. Because I'm kind of frustrated now to remember all that I wrote I will give you a "quickie" instead, this time on my old PC Desktop that is running alongside the "IMAC" just in case.

The industry frowns on going over vinyl, their main complaint being that the finished floor is only as good as the product it is attached to. This being said, rightfully gets them off the hook, and rightfully places the burden on the manufacturers that have created the "shortcuts" because of the demand from people who don't have the desire to tear out vinyl and the adhesive and still have to shot blast, or scarify the substrate until it becomes "tile-able". Perimiter Glued Vinyl Flooring is not a tile-able substrate under any circumstances.

Therefore, the answer is, Yes you can, even though the Ceramic Tile Industry cannot logically put their endorsement on shortcuts. The manufacturers can bend the “rules”, and do so, with their own warrantees. It becomes your choice which of the "short cut systems" will work best for you. The most popular is Cementitious Backerboards which also add weight and height. Some of the rest, and not in any specific order are, Ditra Mat, Nobel TS, Composeal with "Fleece", Protecto-Wrap, Laticrete's Tile Underlayment, Mapei's Mapalath, TAVY "Thin-Skin", etc., etc.

 Some of them are installed over a bed of mortar, others are installed with fasteners and mortar, one is a peal and stick and the last, "Thin-Skin" is installed using Glue that sticks to "Anything" except a waxed surface (that can be neutralized). The last two solutions do not raise the height or add measurable weight to a sub-floor. The peal and stick product however, must be handled carefully so it does not accidentally stick to itself while you are handling it, and the last "Tavy "Thin-Skin" installs with a "sticky glue" that can cause you a little discomfort until you get the hang of it. I invented the “Thin-Skin” System because I saw a need and market for a "Short Cut" that really works, which I also personally guaranty. Of course all of the products mentioned, including industry-approved systems, are worthless unless all the manufacturer's installation instructions and tiling techniques are followed.  Armen Tavy

Thank You for the unsolicited Plug, and "your life is going to get better soon", because I have made a design change to my TAVY Tile Spacers that have made them even better. Might not get to the market place until the end of the year but watch for them. When you finally get to see them I expect an e-mail from you with comments: spacerman@tavytools.com  I hope you are also a "PUCK" fan.

I love Laticrete #209 Floor Mud and using only water in the mix is sufficent. After you install #209, including a 1/4" pitch for drainage, use the flat side of a metal trowel (by passing the flat side of the trowel lightly over the surface of the "Dry Pack") to draw a bit of water to the surface, which will help form a harder "crust". The 3701 additive would only hinder the packing and shapping with a Darby. Don't forget to protect those weep holes. Armen Tavy

It's up to our forum visitors now. However, depending on your desperation, you could search on line for Florida Tile Dealers Nationwide and start making phone calls. Armen Tavy

After several hours the mortar should not be negatively affected by rain. Tarps would still be prudent. Delay grouting until the mortar is set or not sooner than 24 hours. Test it to see if it is hard and do not grout until it is completely dry. The Tile Industry recommends that "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar" be the mortar of choice to install tiles exposed to the elements.   Armen Tavy

Yes, it's your choice to "wait or not to wait". Once the air bubbles have been pierced you can continue or wait an hour or a day or more. The glue dries very slowly and if it makes you feel more comfortable, wait an hour or so. There are many chores that can keep you busy in the mean time, like thinking about the best tile layout. The "skim coat" of mortar dries enough in less than 30 minutes.

Calls on my personal cell phone are always welcome 7/24/365: 860-559-8469   Armen Tavy

12"cermamic tiles are dense enough so mold and mildew will go around them. If there is a film on the tile it may be a maintenance issue and this is the least expensive way with products such as "Tilex" or similar products. You are throughing me a "curve" when you say that the grout joints are not discolored, but you say that you have had to replace caulk along the bottom where wall meets floor because of "mold". Mold spores can grow on shower surfaces that have dried soap scum mixed with dead body tissues on them. Mold hates to be covered and will always make its way through the path of least resistance or grow on a surface that has a source of "food" on it. It's a good practice to clean showers weekly with the right chemicals. If you take hot soapy showers, rinse the walls, squeege them, and dry them with your towel. Don't bend your knees while doing this job and make it an "exercise" instead of a chore. 

Clean and scrub first with aggresive mold removers. If the mold returns quickly you probably have issues with a contaminated "water table" build up under your shower pan as a result of "blocked" weep holes in the sub-drain. An experienced plumber might be able to use a small right angle "Dremel" drill to create weep holes in the drains collar from inside the upper portion of the sub-drain assembly. If not, you may be able to unscrew (this may not be so easy) the upper adjustable portion of the drain that screwed into the sub-drain and install a new one with vertical weep "slots" cut into the threads.

If you have spare tiles, you may have to "operate" by removeing about a 6" or larger diameter portion of tile and cement around the drain to get all the way down to the flange of the sub-drain to inspect the weep holes and clean as necessary. If plugged weep holes was the cause of your problems, replacing the dry pack would have to be preceeded with at least a cup of "small pea gravel" to protect the weep holes. A complete tear out of the pan could be costly if brut force is used to remove it, however, if care is taken, the tile and the old "dry pack" can be removed without injuring the waterproofing. You would also need to take precautions not to injure the shower's "curb".  Armen Tavy                 

 I don’t recall seeing a 6” x 6” Saltillo Tile, there were some 8" for a while but 12" became the size everyone wanted. They started making hexagon and octagon tiles as well as Fleur d' Leaf. 4" "Dots" were also made to accommodate various patterns including the 4" x 8" brick size tile with the optional 4” "Dot" for a Pinwheel Design Pattern. Many of these tiles also had bottoms that became concave during the drying process, so most installers would, or should have, leveled their backs with Thin-Set mortar before installation. The bottoms of the tiles were also very dirty because they were sun-dried directly on the ground outsider the villager’s home. Each had their own molds and sizing was not perfect/precise in length, width and thickness and varied somewhat from one mold to another as well as from village to village. The nominal size of 12” was also reduced to as small as 11 ½” to save “clay”, although the square foot price was not adjusted. You got less tile but paid the same price.

 Back in the 70s, we used to arrange the tiles in tubs of water to clean the dirt off of them as well as soak them, because if you didn’t soak them in water and then let them drip dry for about a half hour or so, they would draw/suck the water out of the tile setting mortar compromising the bond. 

The side effect from the practice of total immersion in water before installation was Efflorescence. Evaporation of the excess water in the tiles also drew natural salts out of the product and the slab through the path of least resistance, the grout joints, and sometimes right through the body of the tiles themselves. I changed my method of washing these tiles to stacking about 30 tiles in a line, up on end, and leaning against a wall, but not to tight, so I could flip them as I rinsed the dirt off each one with a garden hose. It effectively cleaned the tiles and also got them “ wet”, without overloading them with water.  

The average thickness of either tile was + - 3/4”. After many years of complaints someone listened and convinced the villagers to lay the tiles on beds of old newspapers so they would be clean enough to install without washing. The “softness” of the Terra Cotta tiles was also addressed and the remedy was to bake them in an oven to harden them, however it took about 1800 degrees f. to get them hard enough. A tap with your knuckle could tell the difference, with a low thud or a distinct “ring”.  Before installation, the tiles could still be misted with water to “wet” them down a bit. Automation has changed a lot of the original crude techniques including, "pressing", extruding and baking. The popular child handprints and dog footprints are still in demand, although they are mostly done on purpose now.  Armen Tavy                        

You should drill the hole with a masonry hole saw in the exact location. Make a template first and then transfer the location for drilling onto the tile. Armen Tavy

Call the "NTCA" (NAtional Tile Contractors Association) for Dave Gobis' e-mail, he has all the information in his memory bank. 601-939-2071 and ask for "Gigi"

This tile is called a "Double Bullcose". My assumption is that you may be referring to "American Olean" Tile Company.Find them on line at: www.americanolean.com, for the nearest location. They and "Daltile" have many colors, and one may be yours or close. Armen Tavy 

No, but you can fill them if they are deep enough with marble epoxy. The epoxy can also be tinted with universal colorant to get it close to some of the natural color variations in the travertine. If the scratches are not deep enough this may not work and may require a deeper scratch so they can be filled. Travertine is mechanically polished, when using diamond pads, or wet and dry sandpaper, either can cause "dulling" as well as an obvious depression if you are overzealous, that can be visible from an angle. Polishing the stone after sanding would also be required. This also takes experience. Epoxy, if used, is applied on the scratch and excess removed with a single edge razor blade. Acetone is the solvent for epoxy residue. Epoxy residue must be removed, but wiping residue too soon can also wipe off the epoxy. It only takes a few minutes for the epoxy to set enough before scraping with the razor blade. If you wait to long it will be difficult to remove. If you can afford it, it might be best to call in a "stone man" experienced in refinishing. Armen Tavy

Anytime it suits you, but I'm wondering why you need too. Armen Tavy

We don't recommend polymer modified sand and cement mix because they are to "sticky" and as a result difficult to pitch and shape. A sand and cement "dry pack" should be the texture of damp beach sand that you use to build a "sand castle". Imagine if the sand stuck to your hands while you were building, it would be messy and not easy. Grout the corners and then apply a caulk, but if you are "sloppy" it will look terrible. If you want, you can caulk first, remove most of it with wet sponge, leaving a cavity/depression deep enough for cement grout that would hide the caulk. Caulking is generally used to fill cracks, it is not used to waterproof a joint or corner, if that is your concern. Colored sanded and un-sanded caulks are available to match many grout colors, just be neat in the application, and wash off all excess caulk with a damp sponge. Dry caulk residue is nasty to look at, so wash then wipe off any residue beyond the intended caulked area. Armen Tavy

see # 12197

I would call the local building inspector to see if it's safe to inhabit the residence. Seriously, you have some issues here that I can't help you with, unless you do as I say. Get a plain old metal kitchen knife and tap/bounce the butt of the handle on all the tiles in all the areas you have mentioned and then get back to me. If all the tiles in all the areas sound hollow, when you tap them, they just are not "stuck" any more and the mortar has lost its bond to the tiles.

As Hairline Cracks develope, the crack transfers thru the tiles body as well. When concrete slabs starts to shrink, small hairline and larger cracks can appear, some small and short, others can be wall to wall. These cracks transfer up thru the tiles instantly, especially when they are mechanically bonded properly. This action can crack the tiles imulating the cracks in the concrete and sometimes the shearing can also break the original bond of the tiles to the slab, if the installer was not proficent. If they sound solid (no hollow sound) I would not spend another night in that house.

I don't know where you live, because you didn't say. Are you in "Earthquake" country?  Do you have any cracks in ceilings and walls? Are doors sticking? Cracks along or near the entire wall of a house are not normal. It is not my intent to alarm you but, you can never be to careful. Armen Tavy aka Spacerman